After 18 years of running popular Geylang grilled crab stall, hawker hands biz over to old pal
Instead of the usual chilli crab swimming in gravy or stir-fried black pepper crab, Happy Crab in Geylang is known for its grilled Sri-Lankan roe-filled crabs. For the past 18 years, the cheery-looking stall has been helmed by its founder Peter Ang. However, regulars might’ve noticed that the 71-year-old towkay recently passed the reins over to a younger owner.
The new boss is Peter’s close friend, Andrew Leow, 54. Despite their near 20-year age gap, the duo have known each other since 2000, back when Andrew was working as an insurance agent, and Peter a car dealer. “I was with him since the inception [of the stall], we’re very close [like] brothers,” Andrew says.
Since taking over the biz in May, Andrew had to relocate Happy Crab from its original outlet at 609 Geylang, to a new location at 611 Geylang due to renovations at the first kopitiam. Both locations are just a stone’s throw away from each other, and Andrew plans to reopen the original outlet later this month.
Note that there are other similarly named grilled crab stalls unaffiliated to Happy Crab, including V Happy Crab BBQ Seafood at Pahang Street, and Happy Crab Extra in Serangoon. Andrew explains: “Peter’s stall was the first to set up its brand name as Happy Crab, since 2006. The other stalls were opened by Peter’s brother, but his bro has since sold off the biz”.
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From close friend to biz successor
The new boss tells us that Peter approached him to take over Happy Crab earlier this year, as he wanted to step back and retire soon. “I know [how Peter runs] his trade well, so I was the chosen one!” he laughs.
He adds: “I’m very familiar with what Peter does. In 2018, one of his workers went for a leg operation, and I assisted him [at the stall] for four months,” he says. He also shares that he underwent cooking lessons from Peter for four months.
Andrew declines to reveal whether he paid Peter a fee to take over his biz, but says that the former towkay still owns some shares. According to him, Peter continues to help out at the shop on some weekends.
Took 20 percent pay cut to become hawker
Up till late 2023, Andrew had been working in the commodities industry, dealing with the oil and gas trade in China. Compared to his salary then, he shares that he earns “around 20 percent less” as a hawker now.
“I definitely [took a pay cut], but now that I’m in the service line, I feel that I get to meet people, and make more friends,” Andrew reasons.
He adds: “When we serve our crabs, the satisfaction that we get is the [good] feedback from customers”.
The menu
For the past 18 years, Happy Crab specialised only in grilled black pepper crabs, but Andrew has decided to introduce another flavour: garlic butter. Andrew cooks all the crabs daily, with the help of two assistants.
Crabs here start at $40 for a medium-sized 400g crab, and are brushed with either garlic butter or black pepper paste as they’re grilled. One of the highlights at Happy Crab is their usage of only roe-filled female crabs or male crabs with milt for added richness and texture. Each crab is served with three dipping sauces - wasabi, sambal and Japanese mayo.
Besides crabs, the new hawker has also introduced grilled scallops, priced at $20 for six pieces. When he reopens Happy Crab’s second outlet, Andrew plans to introduce more dishes like oysters, prawns and soup.
Happy Crab is at 611 Geylang Rd, Singapore 389550. Open daily 4pm - 8pm. Tel: 8368 9789. More info via Facebook and Instagram.
Photos: Happy Crab
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